Denali (Mount McKinley)
Alaska Range • Alaska, USA
Denali (Mount McKinley) in the Alaska Range (Alaska, USA) rises to an elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 m) with +20,146 ft of prominence. Ranked as #1 in North America (Highest Peak), the standard route is West Buttress (Glacier & Alpine Expedition) (Class 5 (Technical)). Best climbed during May to early July, the ascent requires an official wilderness permit (Denali National Park 60-day advance mountaineering registration, mountaineering fee, and mandatory ranger orientation required.).
Peak Geography & History
Rising 18,000 feet straight up from its surrounding glacial plains, Denali is one of the most physically demanding extreme high-altitude expeditions on Earth. Because of its extreme northern latitude (63° N), the atmospheric pressure at the summit corresponds to an altitude roughly 2,000 feet higher than a Himalayan peak of comparable elevation. Expeditions spend 2 to 3 weeks hauling heavily loaded sleds up the Kahiltna Glacier, establishing camps at 7,800 ft, 11,000 ft, 14,200 ft, and 17,200 ft before pushing up the Autobahn to the Kahiltna Horn and summit ridge.
Required Gear Checklist
Severe sub-arctic temperatures plummeting to -40°F with jet-stream velocity winds exceeding 100 mph. Extreme risk of frostbite and cerebral edema.
Nearby Climbing Routes & Trails
Expedition Information
May to early July
Denali National Park 60-day advance mountaineering registration, mountaineering fee, and mandatory ranger orientation required.